The symbolic graveyard for the martyrs of the July Revolution on the grounds of the former Ganabhaban, now a museum Abdul Goni
Feature

Inside the house of power the July Revolution threw open

Sheikh Hasina once governed from Ganabhaban. Today, the former prime ministerial residence has become a museum to the movement that drove her from power

Adiba Hayat

Mehedi Hassan’s mother did not need to read the caption. This Friday, she stood before a glass case inside Ganabhaban, looking at a single shoe.

Around her, visitors moved slowly through the room, pausing before photographs and personal belongings from the July Revolution. Some leaned toward the display labels. Others raised their phones to take pictures. The murmur of families and small groups carried in from the corridor.

But she remained where she was. The shoe belonged to her son.

Mehedi had left home on July 19, 2024, only about 10 minutes before he was shot in front of the Kutubkhali toll plaza. He was taken to a hospital but later died from his injuries. During the effort to get him there, only one shoe remained on his foot. It was eventually returned to his mother.

Now, two years later, it was resting under museum glass inside the former official residence of Sheikh Hasina, the ousted prime minister whose government was brought down by the uprising in which Mehedi was killed.

His mother began to cry. The people near her knew the shoe through the story the museum had given them…a name, a date, a place, a death. She knew it differently. She knew the boy who had put it on before leaving home.

For a time, the room seemed to quiet around her. That distance, between an object in a museum and the life that once surrounded it, is unusually small.

The events preserved here in the July Revolution Memorial Museum are only two years old. Many of the people walking through the galleries remember them as something that happened to them, or beside them, or just beyond the windows of their homes.

And then there is the building itself. Ganabhaban is not merely housing the history. It is part of it.

Its stairs were never meant for crowds like these. For more than a decade and a half, they belonged to the controlled interior of political power…cabinet ministers, senior officials, security personnel, foreign dignitaries and invited guests. Sheikh Hasina lived and worked here as prime minister, behind a security perimeter that most Bangladeshis knew from television footage and photographs.

Now children run ahead of their parents on the landings. Families climb from one floor to another. University students linger before familiar images. Visitors squeeze past one another in corridors that once formed part of the structure of official government. 

They stop before photographs from the monsoon of 2024, when a protest over quotas in government jobs widened into a national uprising and, within weeks, ended Hasina’s rule.

From power to people 

The transformation is evident even before the exhibits begin.

The building still feels like a residence built for the state. Its corridors are broad. Its rooms carry the formal proportions of official life. Staircases lead from one controlled space to another. Movement through them for years would have depended on security clearance and protocol.

Now people wander.

People arrived in droves at the July Revolution Memorial Museum on Friday, the first weekend since it opened.

The rooms hold photographs of protesters, newspaper clippings, videos, handwritten messages and graffiti. There are cartoons, audio recordings and personal possessions belonging to people killed during the uprising.

Many visitors pause to read. Others do not need to. They remember. Rohan remembers the nights.

“I could not sleep at night two years ago in July when the uprising was taking place. I felt horrible about what was happening. On August 5, when Sheikh Hasina fled the country, it felt like Eid to me. I could not come to Ganabhaban that day, but I am here now, two years later, seeing history unfold in front of my own eyes,” he said.

On August 5, 2024, as the uprising reached its climax and Hasina fled the country, protesters entered Ganabhaban.

The images of that afternoon were unlike almost anything the compound had seen before. It had always been one of Bangladesh’s most restricted addresses. Then, within hours, thousands of people were moving through its grounds.

Rohan had wanted to be among them. He could not come then. Two years later, he was standing inside.

That sense of crossing a boundary that had once seemed immovable follows visitors through the museum.

Hasibul had been on the streets during the protests. Inside Ganabhaban, he moved through rooms filled with images of those same days.

“It feels like I am taking a walk down memory lane. All the memories from July 2024 are coming back to me when I was out protesting on the street. I witnessed protesters getting shot and beaten. Two years later, when I am walking out of Ganabhaban, the namesake is finally making sense to me,” he said.

That sense of crossing a boundary that had once seemed immovable follows visitors through the museum

Ganabhaban means the People’s House. To most Bangladeshis, the name had long contained an obvious contradiction. It was a house named for the people but largely inaccessible to them. Entry was managed and movement was controlled. The public encountered Ganabhaban through official photographs and images of Hasina receiving politicians and foreign visitors.

Now people stop in its corridors to take family photographs. Children peer into rooms. Visitors move at their own speed. Some talk quietly…others say almost nothing.

The museum’s account begins before July 2024.

A walk down into the memories of autocracy 

Its curators place the uprising within a longer history of the Awami League’s years in power, including allegations of enforced disappearances, political killings, restrictions on dissent and episodes of state violence.

The exhibits refer to the Pilkhana massacre, the Shapla Chattar incident, the road-safety movement and the killing of Abrar Fahad, the university student beaten to death in 2019.

There is also a reconstruction of Aynaghar, the name associated with secret detention facilities where victims of enforced disappearance were allegedly held during Hasina’s rule.

The curatorial argument is clear. July is presented as the endpoint of years of accumulated anger instead of an abrupt political explosion. The museum becomes more immediate as the chronology reaches the monsoon of 2024.

The early galleries follow the quota protests, led largely by students. Then the crowds in the photographs begin to grow. Newspaper pages record expanding demonstrations and intensifying confrontation. Videos and audio clips capture a movement spreading outward from university campuses.

The story becomes denser from room to room. For many visitors, the sequence is already familiar. What is unfamiliar is where they are standing while they follow it. They are walking through the former residence of a prime minister while retracing the political movement that removed her from it.

Shamina came with her mother and younger brother.

“I was in the street protesting at Dhaka University during the initial days. To come to Ganabhaban and see it be transformed into a museum is unreal to me. Even two years ago, Ganabhaban was not open to the public, but now it is,” she said.

Her experience was common among the younger visitors. The museum was essentially reorganizing memories they already possessed.

A photograph restored a particular street and a video brought back the sound of a crowd. A newspaper front page recalled the pace at which events had changed. Then came the objects.

A shirt, a letter, a personal note, a shoe. Museums have long turned ordinary possessions into historical evidence. They place objects behind glass and attach names, dates and some explanatory text. An item once used without thought becomes representative of something larger.

But here the transformation is incomplete. July is too recent. The people who owned these things, and the families who knew them before they became artifacts, remain close by.

The distinction becomes clearest at Mehedi Hassan’s shoe. To another visitor, it is evidence of a death in the uprising. To his mother, it is something he wore out of the house. There is no museum label capable of closing that gap.

Stories of uprising 

Elsewhere in Ganabhaban, visitors carry stories that have never entered a glass case.

Md Selim, an auto-rickshaw driver, remembered being at work. “My auto-rickshaw was damaged by the police in July 2024 during the uprising. I was waiting for passengers at the Moghbazar-Hatirjheel intersection when a swarm of uniformed men attacked. I escaped with a broken arm and a beat-up rickshaw. I came here today to see what Ganabhaban has been turned into. I am happy with what I have seen so far,” he said.

Selim’s July unfolded at a traffic intersection. He had been waiting for passengers.

That was also part of the geography of the uprising…university gates, roads, intersections, markets, bus stops and residential neighborhoods that became part of the confrontation, sometimes with little warning.

Not everyone caught up in it had gone looking for politics. Some were simply trying to get through the day.

Visitors pick up the receiver of the red telephone and press a button, bringing to life archived recordings of calls Sheikh Hasina made while in office.

Inside Ganabhaban, objects from the old life of the compound remain as well. One of them is a red telephone. Visitors gather around it. They pick up the receiver and press a button. Archived recordings of calls made by Sheikh Hasina while she was in office began to play.

It once carried the voice of authority outward and now carries recordings of that authority back to the public.

Nearby are exhibits dealing with Hasina’s final hours at Ganabhaban and her departure on August 5. By then, the architecture has begun to do almost as much work as the exhibits.

A museum built from scratch must create an atmosphere. Ganabhaban does not have to. The corridors, rooms are real. The museum does not have to reconstruct the former seat of power because the former seat of power is the museum.

That knowledge stays with visitors as they move through it.

For Asiya Begum, the museum placed July inside a much longer lifetime. She is over 80.

“I am old and fragile. I came to see this museum to see how history changes. I have lived through the 1948 Language Movement, the 1970 Liberation War, the Ershad regime ousting in 1990 and now the 2024 July Uprising. I think I have seen what the young ones are capable of and it gives me a lot of pride in saying that I am a Bangladeshi, and this museum is testament to it,” she said.

Around her were visitors who had not been alive for most of the events she listed. For some of them, July was the first mass political convulsion they had witnessed.

For Asiya, it joined a longer sequence…movements, war, military rule, protests, governments that looked permanent until they were not. She had come, she said, “to see how history changes.”

A museum created so soon after a political rupture cannot escape another question: Who is deciding what the rupture means?

Decoding a rupture 

The July Revolution Memorial Museum is a state-backed institution created after the fall of the Awami League government. Its account of Hasina’s rule, the violence surrounding the uprising and the political history that preceded July reflects the circumstances of its creation.

The arguments over 2024 have not ended.

Its political meaning remains contested. The people who governed, protested, survived and lost relatives are still alive and active in public life.

The museum therefore occupies an uncertain space between memory and history. It is preserving an episode whose consequences continue to unfold outside its gates. That challenge is made more difficult by the nature of the evidence.

Much of July was documented in forms designed for speed rather than permanence. Videos moved through messaging apps. Photographs appeared in social-media feeds. Livestreams captured moments that were replaced within hours by newer footage.

Slogans were painted on walls. Messages were written on cardboard and placards. Phones filled with images. Some records disappeared almost as quickly as they were created.

But walls get painted over, accounts are deleted, devices fail, clothing is folded away. Families put belongings into cupboards. Memories shift. But the museum has begun taking some of those materials out of ordinary circulation and placing them inside an archive.

A slogan is preserved and a recording becomes an audio installation. A personal belonging receives a label. The impulse is archival: to keep things from disappearing.

Yet the galleries also make clear how much cannot be archived. Rohan brings the nights he could not sleep. Hasibul brings the streets where he saw protesters shot and beaten.

Shamina brings Dhaka University. Selim brings the intersection where he was waiting for passengers. Asiya brings more than eight decades of political memory. And Mehedi Hassan’s mother brings the knowledge of the person who wore the shoe.

These memories move through the museum alongside the objects. At times, they are more powerful than the objects themselves.

Perhaps that is because the largest object on display has no glass around it.

Birds Eye view of Ganabhaban complex, now July memorial museum

Ganabhaban itself remains the museum’s most consequential artifact. The compound had been designed around separation.

Security checkpoints regulated arrival. Guards controlled entry. Political power existed physically behind walls and gates. Most people experienced the building as a distant address attached to the office of the prime minister.

On August 5, 2024, that arrangement broke down within hours. Two years later, its reversal became formal. The newly elected Prime Minister Tarique Rahman inaugurated the museum and unveiled its plaque, saying the memories preserved there would allow future generations to remember the sacrifices that reshaped the nation’s history.

The ceremony ended and the visitors kept moving. People passed through the corridor outside the display containing Mehedi Hassan’s shoe.

Some slowed down. Some read the caption.

His mother already knew every part of the story that mattered to her. Before there was a plaque and a glass case and a building full of visitors, there had been a morning when Mehedi put it on and walked out of his home.

Outside Ganabhaban, more people were coming through the gates. They had known the building from the other side of those gates. Now they entered freely, climbed its stairs and walked its corridors.

And as they did, they brought July back inside with them.

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