Gouranga Moni Das is 70, but retirement is not an option.
Every year before Durga Puja, he travels from Nawabganj, outside Dhaka, to a small town in Kishoreganj, carrying his dhak, a traditional Bengali drum. His younger brother, Nritya Das, accompanies him with a flute.
They have made this journey for 22 years. Their destination is Katiadi's dhak market, a gathering of traditional musicians and festival organisers whose origins, according to local accounts, stretch back nearly 500 years.
This year, last week, the market was crowded with drummers, flautists and percussionists seeking contracts to perform at Durga Puja celebrations. Organisers moved between groups, listening to performances and negotiating fees.
Gouranga struck his drum. Nritya joined with his flute. They were hoping someone would hire them. The brothers have spent much of their lives performing together. But the money they earn remains uncertain, and the number of people depending on them is large.
Gouranga has a wife, a son and six daughters. Nritya has a wife and six daughters. Their earnings from traditional music help support both households.
"I am now 70 years old. Even at this age, I have to earn my living by playing music," Gouranga told Daily Waadaa.
His son, Moni Das, lives in Qatar and has chosen a different profession. Gouranga continues to work. "We somehow manage on this income," he said. "But it would be better if we could get more work."
The market occupies an area beside the Freedom Fighters Complex in Puranbazar, Katiadi.
Musicians arrive from different parts of Bangladesh in the days leading up to Durga Puja. Some perform individually, while others come in groups with drums, flutes and other traditional instruments.
Their customers are Puja committees looking for musicians to accompany religious ceremonies and celebrations. Here, musicians demonstrate their skills, organisers compare performances, and both sides negotiate a price.
But the economics have changed.
Gouranga said demand for traditional drummers has declined as recorded music and electronic sound systems have become more common at festivals.
"Previously, there was greater demand for dhak players here," he told Waadaa. "Now, with the increasing use of sound systems, demand has declined somewhat."
At the same time, performance fees have increased.
According to Gouranga, contracts that previously brought 14,000 to 15,000 taka now fetch between 20,000 and 22,000 taka. Depending on the size and composition of a group, bookings this year range from 18,000 to 25,000 taka.
Higher fees, however, do not necessarily mean greater financial security. Durga Puja provides an important source of income for musicians like Gouranga and Nritya, but the work is seasonal and earnings from it must help sustain their families well beyond the festival.
During other months, the brothers perform with local bands and at events organised by Christian communities. They also take on other work and business activities.
Gouranga began playing the flute as a child. He later learned the dhak and other percussion instruments from a teacher known as Dasharath Babu.
Decades of practice have made performing with Nritya familiar. The brothers know each other's timing and can move between rhythms without much discussion.
"Every year, the two of us come together to Katiadi's traditional dhak market," Nritya told Waadaa. "My elder brother plays the dhak, and I play the flute. Together, we try to win people's hearts through our music."
They perform before prospective customers, hoping to secure a contract for the festival. Once hired, they travel to the designated Puja venue and perform for the agreed fee.
"Playing music together is not just our profession," Nritya said. "It is also part of our love for music and our livelihood."
Other musicians at the market face similar calculations.
Suman Chandra Moni Das, who travels from Kapasia, said Katiadi remains one of the better places to find reasonably paid work.
Last year, his six-member group secured a contract worth 80,000 taka. This year, he is asking for 90,000 taka.
"The environment and management here are good," Suman told Waadaa. "I keep returning because it is possible to get good bookings."
Not every negotiation ends in an agreement. Gouranga Chandra Barman, a resident of Kishoreganj town, said rising costs have pushed up musicians' demands.
"My nephew is asking for 25,000 taka, while I have offered 20,000 taka," he told Waadaa. "We have not reached an agreement yet."
Still, he expects to hire musicians.
"The Puja celebrations must go ahead," he said. "So even if it costs a little more, we will eventually have to hire them."
The Katiadi market has survived through generations of musicians and festival organisers.
Its appeal lies partly in the opportunity to compare performers in one place. Rather than arranging musicians through intermediaries, Puja committees can listen to several groups, negotiate directly and select the ones they prefer.
Uttam Kumar Sen, a health inspector from Bangaon village in Gopalganj's Kotalipara upazila, travelled to Katiadi to hire musicians for a community Puja.
Eight community Durga Puja celebrations are being held in his union this year. Musicians had already been booked for seven. He came to arrange the eighth.
"Katiadi's dhak market carries a tradition of nearly 500 years," Uttam told Waadaa. "There is a special joy in hiring musicians from here."
Last year, he paid 17,000 taka for a group with two dhaks and a dhol. This year, a group cost him 18,000 taka. He considers the increase reasonable. "We want the dhak players to receive fair remuneration and return home happy," he said.
The trade remains physically demanding, particularly for older performers. A dhak must be carried and played for extended periods, often through several days of celebrations.
Gouranga knows the demands well. At 70, he still travels to Katiadi, negotiates with organisers and performs beside his younger brother.
He has watched fees rise and demand shift toward electronic music. His son has found employment abroad, but Gouranga has remained in the profession he learned as a boy.
This year, as in the previous 22, he came to the market looking for a contract. "I still have to support my family by playing the dhak as much as my strength allows," he said.
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